This nymph, also known as the Brown Forked Tail, can be used in lakes or streams. It was originated by Doug Prince of Monterey, CA in 1941 for fishing has favorite stream, the Kings River. The above recipe is the actual original pattern described by Doug Prince. However, Skip Morris indicates in his book "The Art of Tying the Nymph", that Doug Prince actually used Black Ostrich Herl instead of Peacock Herl for his original pattern. The Peacock Herl is the better choice as the material provides a very attractive irridescence to the body and has proven to be an excellent body material on other flies, such as the Zug Bug. Usually the white turkey biots used for the wing are turned down. However, in the orginal pattern, the wings were turned upwards.
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|Hook:||Tiemco 5263 or 5262, Size 8-18.
|Weight:||Brass or Tungsten to hook size (Lead wire may also be used).
|Ribbing:||Gold Oval Tinsel.
|Tail:||Brown Goose Biots.
|Hackle:||Brown Hen or Saddle Hackle.
|Horns:||White Goose Biots.
Fish the Prince under an indicator.
- Thread the bead onto the hook through the small hole. Mount the hook in the vise.
- Wrap lead wire around the hook shank from a point just in front of the point to just behind the bead. Break off both ends of the stubs. If there are any tag ends left, fold it down against the shank with your finger or the tips of your scissors. Shove the lead into the bead.
- Attach the tying thread to the hook behind the lead wraps and clip the tag end. Build a slopping dam of thread behind the lead to provide a smooth transition from hook to lead wrap. Wrap the thread to the bend (point of shank just above the barb).
- Prepare two brown biots so that they are separated at their bases, tips are equal and placed back to back so they curve away from each other. The tail should be half the length of the hook shank. Mount the biots on each side of the hook. Bring the thread forward on the shank and clip the ends of the biots.
- Tie on the tinsel starting at a point about an eye length behind the bead. Be sure the tinsel is tied onto the shank on the side nearest the tier. Wrap the thread over the tinsel to the bend of the shank. Return the thread to one eye-length behind the bead.
- Select 6-8 peacock herls and lip their tips square. Tie these in behind the bead. Wrap over the peacock herl to the bend return the thread to the front of the shank.
- Place a drop of Gloss Coat or Zap-A-Gap on the shank and smooth it from the bead back to the bend with your bodkin. This coat locks everything in place and helps strengthen the peacock overbody.
- Wrap the peacock herl forward from the hook bend to just behind the bead and clip off the tag. Do not twist the herl as the undercoat will provide the strength needed and a much more attractive body is formed. Leave space behind the bead for the hackle and horns.
- Spiral-wrap the tinsel forward over the peacock body five or six times. Tie the tinsel off behind the bead and clip the excess.
- Select, size,and prepare a brown hen feather with the hackle fibers equal to 1-1/2 the hook gap.
- Tie the base of the hen feather behind the bead with several tight turns of thread. The concave (inside) side of the feather to face the rear of the shank (shiny side facing forward). Wrap the hackle (each wrap in front of the last) and tie off. Using your thumb and fingers, stroke the fibers towards the bend. Hold the fibers back and wrap thread over the front edge of the hackle. These wraps should keep the hackle back in a swept-back position.
- Pick two white biots, cross them like scissor blades and position the curve of the feathers facing down toward the body. Measure the biots so that the tips reach the base of the tail. Tie the biots in behind the bead, cut the butt ends and continue to wrap thread to form a head.
- Whip finish and cement the thread behind the head.
Flies or materials are available at T. Hargrove Fly Fishing, Inc.
Saint Louis, Missouri 63144
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